Continuing my attempt to see as much of Ireland as possible while I'm here, this past weekend I went to County Kerry in the most southwestern part of the country. I decided to spend a weekend there because I had read in several different resources that the region, particularly the Ring of Kerry, is one of the top recommended destinations when visiting Ireland. With so many possible places to see, I am trying to plan my visits based on recommendations of both seasoned travelers and locals regarding what are the must-see sights. Armed with plenty of travel literature and word of mouth, I left Friday with my friend Danielle and we took the four hour bus ride down the Irish coast to Killarney, a popular tourist town in the middle of Co. Kerry. Having arrived earlier than expected to, we first found our way to the tourist office to find out what's doing in Killarney as well as how to get to our hostel. Having gone a few places throughout the country, I have to say that I really appreciate the effort that Irish tourism offices put out. In any place that the bus runs, the National Tourism Development Authority, more commonly known as Fรกilte Ireland ("Ireland's Welcome") has offices where you can go in and the representatives there will help you with pretty much anything - booking tours, checking into the tourism centers make travelling throughout accommodations, finding the best pub in town, etc. In my experiences, the people who work there have been really helpful and never misleading. I suppose that because tourism is one of Ireland's most profitable industries, they are just trying to do their job. But regardless, I think they do a great job in making travel throughout Ireland a whole lot easier.
After having a chat with the tourism woman, we left armed with maps, brochures, and directions in search of our hostel. We had booked a room at Paddy's Palace (I wish I was joking), which is a hostel run by Paddywagon Tours, an Irish tourism company that does guided trips and provides hostel accommodations for people travelling on a budget...so, basically young people like myself. The company gets a lot of good reviews online and in travel guidebooks, so I figured it was worth a shot. It turns out the reviews were accurate - Paddy's Palace did not disappoint. The location was great, right in the city center of Killarney and just over a five minute walk from the national park that was high up on my sights-to-see list. When we went to check in, the woman who was running the hostel seemed a bit overwhelmed, as there was also about twenty backpackers waiting to check in at the same time. But we eventually got settled in and while the room was sparse, it was clean and provided the essentials - a bed, a bathroom, and somewhere to keep my belongings safe. For less than $25 for a two nights stay, I don't think there were any complaints warranted.
Paddy's Palace
The view from our hostel room
Bunk beds
Kind of sketch skeleton keys for the doors
After settling in, we decided to take advantage of the surprisingly warm weather and head out for a jaunt in Killarney National Park. It was so warm out that I was able to wear just a t-shirt for a while, which is unusual as it has been cold and rainy for the majority of my stay here in Ireland. At home, I always find myself extremely frustrated when the rain gets in the way of outdoor activities, or, God forbid, makes my hair frizzy; but in Ireland, myself, and I suppose all the other visitors, have had to grin and bear it because the rumors are true...it rains all the time in Ireland. Sun showers, downpours, drizzle, mist - at any given time there will be some type of precipitation occurring. But, I have learned to just be prepared for the elements and to enjoy it; I could be back in Boston with all the snow! No thanks. For now, I'll enjoy the frizzy hair and wet days.
Anyway, Danielle and I went to the park to see what it had to offer. Of course, it began to rain as soon as we walked in, but the scenery was too pretty for us to turn back. The park was the first one to be nationalized in Ireland, after the land was donated by We went in search of Ross Castle, which dates back to the medieval period and is associated with Irish folklore,but we were unable to get there due to flooding of the paved walkways that led to the site. We did get to see the castle from afar, which was good enough considering that just as much as every Irish city has a cathedral, it will almost always have a castle. So, I have seen a few in my travels and I am sure I will see more. Once it began to get dark, we headed out of the park to avoid getting lost somewhere within those 25,000 acres.
It had been a long day between bus rides, hostel searching, and exploring the national park, so we decided to keep the night low key, having a quick dinner and heading to see some traditional music being played at a pub recommended by the tourism office. Earlier, we had walked by the pub, O’Connell’s, which had a sign out front stating that the evening’s entertainment would be that night at “9 – ish.” Not 9 or 9:30, just 9-ish, which, I have learned, is typical of the Irish lifestyle. Time here is not really important, things eventually start or get round to at the leisure of their conductors. So, while I would usually be distraught at the lack of specificity and punctuality if I were anywhere at home, I couldn’t help but find the sign funny because it really just epitomizes the Irish way of thinking – things will start when they start and great craic will be had.
When we arrived at the pub around 9:45, we weren’t surprised that there was no music playing. In fact, there wasn’t even a band having a few pints before they took the stage. Instead of waiting around, we walked down the street to another pub, the Danny Mann Inn, where there wasn’t much of a crowd but there was a man on stage entertaining them. We had a pint and listened to the mix of Irish music and comedy that was happening for a bit, until we decided to head back early and get a good nights sleep before waking up and doing some sightseeing the next day.
Motivated by the sunshine and the fact that breakfast ended at 10, we were up and out by 9:30 in search of a tour company that would take us around the Ring of Kerry. We walked throughout the town, which looked similar to others that I have visited, with quaint shops and pubs mixed in with more modernized restaurants and nightclubs. While they all look kind of similar, I find that the towns I’ve been too all offer their own charm and unique qualities, with locals who are so proud to share their homes with visitors.
On the main street in the city center, we found a tour company that did a full day tour around the Ring of Kerry for a reasonable price so we made a quick decision and hopped on the small bus with about ten or so other travelers. Apparently, our experience with booking the tour was unusual, as Ring of Kerry tours are often in high demand, especially when the weather is nice. Maybe other travelers knew that the weather wouldn’t be nice for long, or maybe we just got lucky. Regardless, I’m glad that we were able to secure a spot because the trip was definitely something not to be missed out on. The ring is about 120 miles and we traveled in a counter-clockwise direction because that is the way to go for the best views. We drove throughout the countryside, small villages, and the coast, which was exactly like what you see in movies or in television. There were narrow roads carved out of the cliffside, with no barriers between the pavement and the edge which made for both a scary and exciting ride. We stopped to take pictures along the Iveragh Peninsula, which is surrounded on one side by Dingle Bay and by Ballinskelligs Bay on the other. The scenery was almost as beautiful as the Cliffs of Moher, and it was nice to have the ability to take pictures without a million other tourists getting in the way. Within the Iveragh Penisula is the Macgillicuddy's Mountain Range, where there are the highest peaks in the country. We had lunch in Waterville, a small seaside town that is best known as being the holiday home of Charlie Chaplin back in the day. In Waterville, we were able to spend time on the beach, which I was so glad to finally do. The tour lasted just over 6 hours, having taken us through the ring and part of the national park. It was a long day, with sunshine and rain and battling the elements for the sake of taking a picture, but it was well worth it. I would definitely agree with the suggestions that the Ring of Kerry is a must-see sight in Ireland.
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The Puck Goat - An Annual Tradition in Killorgin |
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Dingle Bay |
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Along Dingle Bay |
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Danielle and I |
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The beach in Waterville |
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My favorite place anywhere |
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With Charlie Chaplin |
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N70 Ring of Kerry |
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Where the queen visited |
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An ancient holding fort where soldiers would hide their wives and children during battle |
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After returning to Killarney, we went back to the hostel for a rest. That rest turned into a several hour long nap, but we eventually got up and ready for a night out in Killarney. We had a quick dinner then went to McSorley's, a local pub and nightclub that we were told was the place to be on a Saturday night. There was a decent sized crowd and some good music, so we stayed for a bit before returning to Danny Mann's, the pub we had been at the night before. We sat and enjoyed the performances by the three-man band for a bit before it got late and we headed back to get some shut eye before leaving in the morning. The next day, we got up, checked out, and hopped on the bus back to Galway. I slept most of the ride as it had been a long, but great, weekend.
Having travelled each of the past four weekends, I plan on staying in Galway for this upcoming one to do some homework (yes, I actually do go to school here as well as galavant about the country) and rest up for a trip to Paris with my program next weekend, which I can hardly wait for. Besides going to Paris, there is a lot of exciting stuff happening in the upcoming weeks, which I'm happy and sad about - happy that I am getting to experience new things and sad that it is all passing so quickly. May 28th will be here before I know it...
Love and enjoying every day,
Haley