Canals, Coffee Shops, and Cyclists

The first part of Eurotrip '11 brough Caitrin, Katie and I to Amsterdam. We arrived at Eindhoven Airport around 10AM, tired from having been traveling since 2 but excited to finally be starting our big adventure. The airport was small and when we went to walk through border patrol, there was a sign stating it was closed. Since there were no other directions, we simply waltzed into the Netherlands like we owned the place, no passport check or anything. (This little tidbit of information will be important later when I explain our attempts to get OUT of continental Europe.) Anyways, we managed to make it to the Amsterdam Central Station after catching one bus and one train from the airport. From there, we navigated our way to our "boatel," an old sailing boat that is permanently docked and had been reconverted into a hostel. We had found out about "boatels" from a friend who had gone to Amsterdam and decided the opportunity to experience such accomodations was too good to pass up. We stayed on the Maria Alberta Passenger Ship, which was easy to locate and very accessible to the highlights of the city. The captain, an elderly man named Luke, greeted us and brought us down to the galley, where his wife gave us our keys and showed us to our cabin. The boat was a lot nicer than I had expected and although space was tight, we really couldn't beat the cleanliness and location for the price we'd paid to stay the night. 

Luke's wife even sat us down and gave us a guidebook to Amsterdam, along with a map of the city and directions for what we should see and do during our stay. Despite being exhausted, we decided to set out and get to exploring, as we only had about a day and a half to see everything Amsterdam had to offer. We did our own version of a walking tour, walking through different parks, pleins (squares), and streets. The city is beautiful with its endless canals and narrow streets lined with old buildings. I was most surprised by the amount of bikes being used throughout the city; everywhere you looked, there were bikes chained to railings, trees, etc. and people riding them in the designated biker lanes that were consistent throughout the city - Amsterdam isn't necessarily pedestrian friendly, but it sure accomodates it's cyclists. Further, the people riding the bikes were even more surprising. Don't think just active, adventurous types were out there cycling along. Oh no, there were businessmen in suits, mothers with child seats on the back of their bikes, and absolute divas riding along with short skirts and high heels. It really was a sight to see.

Other than watching bicyclists, we visited the Bibliotheek (library), had lunch at an adorable outdoor cafe, saw the royal palace, and went to the touristy "IAMsterdam" sign which is a necessary photo to snap while visiting. Around sunset, we took a canal cruise through the intricate waterways that divide the city, giving us a tour from the sights from below ground level. After the cruise, we strolled through the infamous Red Light District on our way back to the boatel. The area was like you hear about, infiltrated with sex shops, "coffee" shops, and prostitutes seducing clients from behind windows. I was horrified and I felt really bad for those girls, but such is life, I guess. We turned in relatively early that night, showering off hours of travel and sightseeing before hitting the sheets.

The next morning, we were up and at 'em early for breakfast that came with our stay in the boatel. It was an impressive spread coming out of such a small kitchen, with lots of choices and big portions. We checked out after breakfast and walked back to the central station to place our bags in security lockers so we wouldn't have to lug them around all day. I was a bit iffy about leaving my bag at the station, but there were lots of people doing it so I assumed that it had to be pretty safe. From the train station, we set out to find the Anne Frank House, which we had bought tickets to visit in advance in order to avoid waiting in line. I'm grateful that we did, because when we arrived there was an obnoxiously long line of people waiting to get in. Like the VIP's that we are, Caitrin, Katie and I strolled into the side entrance, specially made for smart thinkers like us who had bought their tickets online in advance for an extra .50 Euro. Upon entering the museum, we were told that we were to go on a self-guided tour throughout the house and that there was no photography. I was a bit disappointed that I wouldn't be able to take pictures, but it turns out that the experience of visiting the house in real life wouldn't have been done any justice in photos anyway. The tour was narrated by excerpts of the diary and commentary written on the walls throughout the house. There was also video commentary from the receptionists working in Otto Frank's office at the time that the Frank family was hiding in the attic above his workspace. Walking through the office and the Secret Annex, it was just like I'd read about years ago. I walked up the narrow staircase hidden by a bookshelf and into the tiny rooms that housed the Franks' and van Pels families for over two years while they were hiding from the Nazi terrorism. It was unreal to think that less than a century ago, those poor people lived in fear until the ultimately were found out and taken away to concentration camps. Coming out of the house itself, there was an exhibition that detailed the lives of the victims after their capture, all of which ended in fatality except for Otto Frank, who survived internment at Auschwitz only to find out that the rest of his family had not. There is a large black and white photo of him standing in the remains of the secret annex after the Holocaust, and upon seeing it, I swear there was not a dry eye in the room. I really can't describe how moving visiting the museum was and how important it is that Anne Frank's diary is able to publicize her and her families bravery for a worldwide audience. If you're going to Amsterdam, I definitely recommend a trip to the Anne Frank House, it's well worth the money and the memories. 

"I don't want to have lived in vain like most people. I want to be useful or bring enjoyment to all people, even those I've never met. I want to go on living even after my death!" 

— Anne Frank

In need of a pick-me-up after visiting the museum, the girls and I headed for a tulip market, which we had been promised would show us the best flowery that Holland has to offer. It was actually really nice, with lots of different plants and flowers as well as food and gift stalls where we were able to do some shopping and taste some of the local cuisine. I loved seeing the different wooden clogs made by locals, they were adorable and I honestly considered buying a pair solely for the sake of nostalgia, until I tried them on and realized how uncomfortable they were. Major props to any brave Dutchmen who actually wear them! We had lunch on the curb of a deserted street near the market, people watching and killing time before we had to go catch an overnight train to our next destination: Berlin. I left Amsterdam appreciating it for what it was; while there is not much to do in terms of sightseeing in the city, the daily happenings, stores, lifestyles, and landscape are a sight within themselves. I think Amsterdam is a great spot for a weekend of good food, people watching, and relaxation, with the opportunity to get a little wild in the upbeat nightlife scene if that's your style. The people are incredibly friendly, the prices are reasonable, and the dominantly spoken language is English, so language barriers are not an issue. I definitely plan on making it back someday.

Love and the Dutch,
Haley