21 - So Much Fun

So yesterday, January 27th, was my long awaited 21st birthday. I was really excited to spend it in Ireland, but kind of disappointed that I was unable to celebrate back in the US where it's such a big deal to finally be of drinking age. However, I shouldn't have been surprised that the Irish appreciate a 21st birthday just as much as any American. As one elderly cab driver put it, "The Irish are seasoned alcoholics by the time we're 21, but it doesn't mean we won't have a pint for you." So several pints were had...and shots...and Irish Car Bombs...all resulting in a great birthday, I really couldn't have asked for anything more.


On Wednesday night, I headed to a pub called The Quays (pronounced "The Keys") in downtown Galway with a bunch of friends to ring in the big day. Keeping in mind that I had class early the next morning, we kept it pretty relaxed..by Irish standards. A local band was playing at the pub, and when it turned midnight, they announced to the crowd that it was my birthday and wished me a great one. The bartender made me a special shot and random people kept coming up to me to give birthday hugs and kisses. Turning 21 in the company of fun friends and friendly strangers was a ton of fun, we had a few pints and enjoyed the band before calling it a night and gearing up for class in the morning. 

My first birthday shot.

Celebrating with the girls at The Quays

The next morning was kind of rough, the 20 or so minute walk to campus is brutal anytime before 10AM...but the sun was shining and it was my birthday, so I headed out to make the most of it. After class and going downtown in search of the perfect birthday dress, I came home to open a few cards from home and relax before the big night out. My roommates surprised me with a birthday cake, a tiara, and a customized sash so that everyone out in Galway would know that I was the birthday girl. It was so nice of them and such a cute surprise. 

A present my mom snuck in my suitcase before I left. Thanks Mom, love you.

My birthday cake!

After resting in the afternoon, my roommates and I got ready and went to town for a birthday dinner. We tried a little Italian bistro downtown called Il Folleto because meat and  potatoes just weren't going to cut it. The restaurant was small and decorated so cute, with lots of murals and kitschy little decorations. The food was really good and it was a nice time out with my roommates before the chaos of the night ensued. After dinner, we went back to our apartment to pre-game with our friends before going out for the evening. Around 11 we headed to one of our frequent hangouts, a pub called The Front Door where there's always a lot of good music and dancing. I had my first (and definitely last) Irish Car Bomb experience and got many more birthday wishes from strangers. When the pub began to get really crowded, the girls and I decided to relocate to Coyote, a Galway club/pub inspired by the movie Coyote Ugly, complete with American flags, cowboy hats, and a mechanical bull. My friends had suggested we go there with the intention that I was going to brave the bull, but fortunately for me, the mechanical bull was having some mechanical problems. It wasn't a big deal, we stayed for a while to dance and meet Irish boys, of course. When it was nearing closing time, the girls and I decided to call it a night. I was exhausted, but so glad to have spent my 21st with good friends in a great place. This may be the only time that I will ever be lucky enough to spend my birthday in another country, and I'm glad I made the most of it. However, I'm still looking forward to margaritas at Border, scorpion bowls at Kowloon, and a big make-up celebration with friends and family when I get home!

The girls before we headed out.

This is what I meet every night girls!

Roommates outside The Front Door

So much fun

Love and happy birthday's,

Haley

Oh, The Places You'll Go

Last Saturday I went on my first “excursion” and, despite how long I’m sure this post will be, it really was beyond words. The bus arrived to pick myself and 40 other American students up at our apartments around 10AM for what we were told was to be a very busy day. They weren’t kidding. We set off to go to various parts of County Clare, our trip navigated and narrated by Paul, the upbeat bus driver who kept us laughing and interested the entire time.

County Clare is located directly south of County Galway and it took less than an hour for the bus to bring us to the first stop on our adventure: Dunguaire - a 16^th century castle located in the village of Kinvara. Kinvara is located within the Burren, which is Gaelic but literally translates to “great rock.” The Burren encapsulates much of northwest County Clare, covering the terrain in soluble bedrock, such as limestone. (I feel like I have learned more from bus and cab drivers during my time abroad than I have from college professors!) Anyway, Dunguaire Castle is located right along Galway Bay, so its former residents could easily spot unwelcome guests who had decided to make their entrance via sea. Although we could not go inside the castle as it is only open during the Spring and Summer months, we were still able to get up close and get a good look at the exterior and outside perimeters. Ironically, the castle is located on the side of a regular road, with houses, shops, and pubs scattered across the street. Wouldn’t it be nice to look out at this every morning?

The Castle

By Galway Bay

My roommate Alyssa and I by the castle gates

The view of the bay from the castle

After our visit at Dunguaire, we were scheduled to head towards the Cliffs of Moher. But in the interest of being spontaneous and getting the best pictures possible, Paul took us to his favorite spot for viewing some fabulous scenery. The road to get there was out of a movie, we drove on a narrow road with rolling green hills on one side and deathly cliffs plunging towards the ocean on the other. It was nerve-wracking, but Paul seemed to have it under control. Suddenly, he pulled over on the side of the road and told us some words to live by while in Ireland: “don’t fall – whether it be off the side of a cliff or off the stool at the pub, just don’t fall.” Bearing that in mind, we crossed the road and went to the cliffs where there were no barriers to break what would surely be a treacherous fall. Climbing around the cliffs was one of the most exciting and scariest things I’ve ever done, but the pictures and the memories were definitely worth it.

Yikes.

On the edge of the cliffs!

The Atlantic Ocean 

After seeing the hidden gem cliffs, we pressed on to the more touristy, but even more beautiful, Cliffs of Moher. Coming to Ireland, visiting the cliffs was definitely something on my to-do list. I had seen them in pictures and movies (Harry Potter?!) but there is really nothing like seeing them in real life. It’s hard to believe that such an unbelievable sight just occurred on its own for the world to see. There is a small visitor center at the base of the cliffs with the inevitable gift shop and eatery, but overall I was surprised and appreciative that there was a strong effort made to preserve the simplicity and natural elements of the area. The tops of the cliffs are fenced off by stonewalls and rickety wooden panels for safety, but that didn’t really take anything away from the scenery. To boot, there were Irishmen playing traditional music up and down the cliffs just trying to make a Euro; being there was quite the experience. I took about a million pictures but I’ll just put up some of the best. And just as a fun fact – there is a campaign to elect the Cliffs of Moher as one of the new 7 Wonders of the World; currently, the cliffs stand in 9^th place among the likes of the Grand Canyon, the Galapagos Islands, and the Great Barrier Reef. The cliffs definitely have my vote, no question.

The Cliffs of Moher

Sitting by the castle atop the cliffs

Another view

The Cliffs of Moher

With some friends

Leaving my mark

Leaving the Cliffs of Moher, I felt so lucky to have been able to have the experience of visiting such a sight, and also kind of distraught that the day would be downhill from there – what was going to top that? Not too much, evidently. Almost as soon as we left the cliffs, a abysmal fog set in and we could barely see five feet around us. However, the day was still young and the itinerary still had a lot more components. We made a quick stop at a local eatery in the village of Doolin called Fitzpatrick’s to have a little meat and potatoes and tea before continuing the journey. From there, we made a pit stop at a place that wasn’t on the schedule: the village of Kilfenora. There, we went to the Kilfenora Cathedral, a 12^th

The City of the High Crosses

Inside the Kilfenora Cathedral ruins

After the quick pit stop in Kilfenora, we headed to Poulnabrone Dolmen, which translates to “hole of sorrows.” Poulnabrone Dolmen is a Neolithic portal tomb that dates back to around 3000 BC. Excavations in the past couple of decades discovered that there had been as many as 20 adults and 6 children buried in the tomb, as well as several personal items. The tomb was also probably used for spiritual ceremonies throughout the Celtic period. Prior to visiting this relic, I had never even heard of it and had no knowledge of its significance. Realistically, I probably would have came and went through my time abroad without ever having known what it was if I hadn’t been taken to it as part of an excursion. But luckily, I was able to see something that means so much to Irish history and culture.

At this point in the day, everyone was getting pretty tired and feeling pretty done, but we still had two more stops to make before we headed back to Galway. First, we went to the Aillwee Caves, a set of ancient caves located within the Burren. The caves were discovered in 1944 by Jack McGann, an average Irish farmer who stumbled upon them while chasing rabbits. (I couldn’t make this up…) Part of the caves were turned into “show caves” in which the public would be allowed access to see what was inside. A guide took us on a 35 minute trek in the murky, claustrophobic caves. It was kind of like a scene from Indiana Jones or something, we passed bones of animals and waterfalls and walked over sketchy bridges – very adventurous.

Entering the cave

Inside the cave

After the caves, we went to the last stop: a fairy ring. Now, in Irish folklore, a fairy is not like Tinker Bell, it is more like an elf. Fairy rings are circular areas that are found in nature, sometimes surrounded by moats or various plant life. Folklore says that those who walk around the ring three times clockwise will have good luck, their wishes granted, etc, etc, and those who walk around the ring counterclockwise any amount of times are demonic, evil, bad elves. So what did our group of 40+ do? Walked around the ring clockwise three times of course! Unfortunately, it was so foggy out and it had begun to rain so I did not get any pictures of this event - I think the mental image is bad enough!

It began to get dark and it was time to start the trip back towards Galway. While it was great to go beyond the small Galway area we had been confined to for almost three weeks, everyone was exhausted and the bus was silent on the way home as the majority of us were passed out. In just one day, I got to see so many amazing things just in ONE county of Ireland. There are lots more counties and a ton more to see, and I can’t wait. If all goes according to plan, my next adventure will be to the Aran Islands, just off the Galway coast, in the beginning of February. Until then, I will be continuing to go to class (who would think that school was part of the deal?!) and enjoying life in Galway. I laugh because I feel like I have been here forever, and it has been just under a month. But the comfort is definitely a good thing – I miss the conveniences and people at home, but I really am loving life in Ireland. (Don’t worry Mom, I will be coming back eventually!) Until the next adventure…

Love and feeling settled,

Haley

"Goals That Are Not Written Down Are Just Wishes"

Since I have arrived in Ireland, my program director, Fionnghuala (a.k.a Finn), has been encouraging each of us to make a list of our top ten goals that we want to accomplish during our time abroad. She believes that making such a list will give us some direction, a budget, and a sense of pride as each item gets crossed off the list. Finn also encouraged us to make goals that are outside of our usual habits or character, so that we will be challenged and have an even greater feeling of accomplishment when we step outside our comfort zones and fulfill our goals. I have been debating for about two weeks regarding what my ten goals were and I think I finally have them finalized. I have decided to post them on a public forum for two reasons: 1) So that they will be permanently published and I will be consistently reminded of them and 2) So that I will be forced to accomplish them so I will be able to avoid questions of "Why did you never              ?" when I get home. So my top ten goals to accomplish while abroad are:


1) Have fun!
2) Join a club or society that I would never normally participate in at home.
3) Kiss the Blarney Stone.
4) Travel somewhere on my own.
5) Get in better shape. 
6) Go to Italy and have an "Eat, Pray, Love"-esque experience.
7) Have a fleeting fling with an Irishman. 
8) Volunteer in some manner within the local community.
9) Do well in my classes.
10) Keep up my blog so I will be able to remember everything after this experience is over.


So...those are my top ten goals. I'll be sure to update the progress I am making on them as it happens! And now for some parting words of motivation from the wonderful Mark Twain:

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."

Love and goal-hunting,
Haley

Slàinte

On Monday night, I went to The Banx, a local restaurant that serves traditional Irish food, with a bunch of people from my program. The restaurant is owned by Kate, a lovely older Irish woman who is well-known throughout Galway for her delicious cooking abilities. She kindly had us come to her restaurant after its typical closing hours to give us a demonstration and taste of a traditional Irish meal. When we arrived, I was shocked to see that the menu featured "fish pie" as its main course. Now, for those of you who know me, this is a big deal. I don't really do fish, nevermind a pie that consists of various kinds of it. However, since I am supposed to be immersing in a new culture and trying new things (even if they are gross), I decided to be a trooper and enjoy all parts of the experience...including the fish pie.

It's hard to see from the picture, but the dinner consisted of traditional brown bread, white winter soup, fish pie, and apple tart with cream for dessert. Kate and her assistant, Lara, had tables set up filled with fresh locally grown produce, fish from the local fish market, and other ingredients from different shops within Galway. I have noticed that most places around here tend to utilize the food resources within Galway and I appreciate their efforts to be a self-sustaining community. Kate began by making the soup, which consisted of various vegetables including cauliflower, squash, celery, and carrots cooked off in a little bit of butter, oil, and garlic. It smelled delicious and I was happy to be having fresh vegetables for the first time in a while. After the vegetables were done, Kate mixed in some homemade chicken broth and put it on the back-burner for a while. When the soup was done, it had a thick, chunky consistency as some of the vegetables had disintegrated, giving the soup its "white color." We had the soup with Kate's homemade brown bread, which she showed us was made from white wholemeal, brown wholemeal, and a bit of buttermilk - so simple, but so good.

As we enjoyed the first course, Kate started to cook the scallops, salmon, and various white fishes in a big pot with some sunflower oil and garlic. The fish only cooked for a few minutes before she put them in a large casserole dish, spread mashed potatoes over them as a topping, and pour the excess fish juices on top to make a sort of "chowery casserole," as Kate described it.

The makings of fish pie

The fish pie cooked for a short time and then it was on my plate, and I was extremely skeptical; the smell itself was overpowering and the appearance was not very pleasant.

...Questionable.

Shockingly, I tried a few bites. Not so shockingly, I didn't like it at all. I tried to pick around the fish to just eat the mashed potatoes, but Kate really got the fish in there. As we ate, or pretended to eat, the fish pie, Kate went on to make dessert, which everyone had very high hopes for. Fortunately, the dessert delivered and it so delicious. Kate used huge locally grown Granny Smith apples and a little cinnamon and sugar to make the filling for her homemade tart crust. The tarts only took about 15 minutes to cook and when served with a little cream, they were delicious. 

Rolling out the tart dough.

How cute was she?!

The finished product

So, while I did not love the traditional Irish dinner, I didn't hate it either. The bread, soup, and apple tart were great and I loved having the chance to watch the meal being cooked. It was like being in the audience of a Rachael Ray taping (or at least what I would imagine it to be like.) Kate gave us a little book of the recipes to try on our own, so I may give it a go while I'm here or when I get home so I can share a little bit of Ireland with everyone. All in all, it was a good experience that I am glad to have been a part of.

Love and no more picky eating,

Haley

Getting Into the Swing of Things

I have been in Ireland for about two weeks now, and I am surprised to find how quickly I have settled in and become comfortable in my new city. The long walks to school, the city center, the grocery store - basically anywhere - are becoming less inconvenient and more habitual, with the exciting possibility of a new discovery every time I leave my apartment. I have been spending the majority of my time with my roommates and it has been a lot of fun, going "pubbing" (pub and club hopping), laughing at our fixer upper, having afternoon tea, and adjusting to the quirks of Irish life together. 

Over the past few days, I have gotten to know my way around the essentials of Galway, which isn't too big of a city and very accessible by foot. I am appreciating all of the exercise as well as the cool things I find...

Galway's Latin Quarter featuring the Spanish Arch where Christopher Columbus prayed.

A Tribute to Oscar Wilde

Saint Nicholas' Cathedral

While I have plans for doing lots of adventuring outside of Galway in the very near future, I was happy to have spent my first two weeks enjoying the sights, social scene, and people here. On any given night there is something fun happening, pubs are always packed to the brim, the university puts on different shows/activities, or my roommates are awesome to stay in and hang around with. It's like going to school back at home, lounging around with roommates, walking to class in the rain, and watching Sunday night football (yes, I did find a pub that had the Patriots on - so great!), except in a new place with a lot of exciting potential. This upcoming weekend, the program I am on is taking us to County Clare, where will will see castles, fishing villages, and the Cliffs of Moher, which, words cannot describe how excited I am to be able to go to. All I am hoping for is that the weather cooperates so I can take beautiful pictures, or else I may just have to go back! 


Love and new places,
Haley

Do You Live Near Jersey Shore Country?

...That was the question I was asked, in all seriousness, by an Irish boy a couple of nights ago. While his adorable accent kept me from sarcastically replying "Is that a joke?" I couldn't help but laugh out loud. I told him that I lived a five or six hour drive from the shore, but that I had never been there. This response prompted several other questions regarding American's and their GTL habits, the most hilarious of which was "Don't you want to come to the club and fist pump?" I politely declined, however, sometimes it just happens...

Since I have arrived in Galway, I have met (obviously) many Irish people. Even before I open my mouth, they know I am an American and seem really eager to ask me all sorts of questions regarding politics, relationship status, education, alcohol...you name it, they will probably ask about it. I really like getting to know the natives and hearing what they think about Americans and our way of life - it is surprising how much they know about the United States' government, economics, and society. However, I have been disappointed to find out that the majority of Irish people around my age think that Americans are of one breed - Jersey Shore. When I am under the impression that an Irish guy or girl thinks that I am going to be just like Snooki, I do my best to assure them that Jersey Shore is "not real life." Now, it would be a lie if I said I don't like the show or enjoy having a tan just as much as the next guidette, however, I do think that the cast is a poor, poor reflection of young Americans, and something that I should actively work to change while I am abroad. I think it is important that young Americans are seen as educated, respectful individuals rather than the fist-pumping, alcohol binging party animals they are represented by on television. There is more to us than good tans, silly dance moves, and the never-ending desire to have a great time. 


Love and real life,
Haley

Putting the "Study" In Study Abroad

This past Monday marked the beginning of the Spring semester at the National University of Ireland...kind of. Armed and ready with a pen, a notebook, a watch, a map, and the essential rain gear, I made the 20 or so minute walk to the university a couple hours before my first class was scheduled to begin. My roommates and I alloted this extra time so we could find where our classes were being held in advance. Walking around, I couldn't help but notice not only how small the school is in comparison to UMass, but also how beautiful it is in comparison. (not that I don't love the Zoo, but it isn't the prettiest campus I've ever seen). Just look at where I get to be educated for the next four months:

The entrance to the quadrangle

The student union and college bar

The outside of the quadrangle

Welcome to NUI Galway

The River Corrib that runs through campus

UMass goes to Ireland

The campus is beautiful, with buildings reflecting different architectural trends and ages. The classes I am taking are mainly in one huge structure that somehow comprises three different buildings. Walking through that area, I kind of feel like I am in a high school as there are lockers lining the maze-like hallways and waves of students walking about between classes. There is also a coffee and tea cafe in nearly every building, an ode to the importance of having "a tea and a chat" often while living an Irish lifestyle. Speaking of which, I was surprised at how much Gaelic I have heard and seen around campus. While English is inarguably the dominant language here in Ireland, Gaelic is definitely also common. I have even picked up a few phrases, such as "dia duit (hello)," "is mise Haley (my name is Haley)," "is as America dom (I am from America)," and "slainte (cheers)" Gaelic can be seen written throughout campus and the city as an ode to the original language of the Emerald Isle.

For international students, the university has us "shop around," attending classes we think we may be interested in for the first week before we officially register for them. I think I have all my classes figured out; I am taking two English classes towards my major, an American history course, two Irish studies courses, and one that I am particularly excited about: a service-learning project for visiting students in which I will volunteer at a "homework club" for an hour every week, helping Irish children with improving their reading skills. Not only is that what I want to do as my career, but I will also be able to immerse myself in the culture and get to know more people. I am taking six classes because that is what will transfer back to UMass as a full semester's worth. Classes only last about 12 weeks, until April 2nd, and then final evaluations take place via paper or exam. Unlike at home, final evaluations here are solely what your grade is based on, which is a lot of pressure but I only have papers to do for my classes and I will be apprised of the topics by the end of February, so I will have plenty time to work on them. 


Once I get into the swing of how the university works, I'm sure everything will fall into place. However, this "shopping week" I am currently experiencing is not what I am used to. Being the organizational Nazi that I am, I am a bit distraught to find that my school for this semester is a complete free for all. On paper, classes began at 8AM Monday morning, but, in reality, classes start next week, or the one after that, or whenever. I have gone to classes in which professors have handed out a a syllabus and wished the class a good day, and classes where there has been no professor at all. I have been informed by natives that the Irish have no regard for "timetables" and that work is not necessarily always a priority. Even though this is a strange concept, I hope I can learn to appreciate it because my impression is that the people of Ireland tend to have a more relaxed and laid-back quality of life than most people at home. They really take the time to sit back and enjoy the day, rather than rush through it trying to do so many things in so little time - a habit that I think I can surely get into.


Love and tea and a chat,
Haley